Clifford Geertz and his wife visit a Balinese village where
they are, “invisible men.” The village ignored them and refused to acknowledge
their presence. One day the couple joined the village in running from police
after a cockfight and hid out in a local couples’ home. After this event the
couple received acceptance from the entire village. The Balinese were tickled
by the foreigners running from the police and everyone in the village wanted to
hear the Americans’ story. Through this acceptance Geertz was able to start learning
about how important cockfights were with Balinese culture. Balinese men have a,
“deep psychological identification” with their cocks and the, “double entendre
is deliberate.” The Balinese men spend enormous amounts of time with their
cocks, feeding them, grooming them, or, “just gazing at them with a mixture of
rapt admiration and dreamy self-absorption.” Animal-like behavior is considered
repulsive and babies are not allowed to crawl. In the cockfights this,”animality”
and men meet and battle in a, “bloody drama of hatred, cruelty, violence, and
death.” Geertz then shifts his essay to the rules and standard practices of
cockfights. Cockfights are held in a ring and begin late in the afternoon and
usually 10 fights comprise a program called a, “sehet.” The rules of
cockfighting are written on palm-leaf manuscripts and have been passed down
over the generations. Handlers tend to the cocks during the fight and will even
resuscitate the bird. The umpire has absolute authority and Geertz never
witnesses any villager complain or question an umpire’s judgment. Betting is
also a very large part of the cockfights and can get very complicated. Geertz
learns that the village always supports the local cock just as an American town
supports the local football team. The cockfight embodies the culture, social
networks, and rituals of Balinese life.
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